Das macht in dem Job aber keinen Spass, wenn man rechnen kann, auch wenns hilfreich erscheint...
Der einzige Vorteil dürfte sein, dass du rechtzeitig siehst, wannst zumachen musst...
Mathematiker können eh nicht rechnen...
Ich bin ja das Paradebeispiel, bin bei meinem ersten Triathlon ne Runde zu viel gefahren am Rad.
Ich kopier gleich den ganzen Post von Weight Weenies hier rein - zur Info für alle, die diese Pedale haben und früher oder später mal was wechseln müssen... Speedplay hat ja etwas "interessante" Preise für ihre Ersatzteilkits... O.o
Zitat:
All the info you ever needed to rebuild your Speedplay pedals.
Having rebuilt over 150 pairs of Speedplay road and mountainbike pedals I have a very good knowledge of Speedplay pedals inside and out. A few misconceptions propagated by Speedplay that I want to clear up:
The needle bearings on all models of Speedplay road bike pedals are NOT fused or glued in any way and are very easy to change out. Instructions below.
The only differences between the X1 and X2 are spindle material and body color. You can rebuild your X1’s with X2 bodies with NO problems. They are the exact same except for color. No need to spend $100+ to rebuild your pedals.
I have measured the internals of all of the models listed below using a micrometer and found that they are all identical and cross-compatible. The bodies, cleats and bowties are different, but inside they are all the same.
X1 & X2.
Zero Ti, Stainless & Chromoly.
Light Action Ti & Stainless
You can interchange bodies and spindles between all pedals listed above. Note: Ti spindles are 2mm shorter. You can use Ward Ti spindles on any of the models listed above.
X5 (aka X3) and Light Action Chromoly are completely different inside and not compatible with the other pedals listed above.
To do a full rebuild requires the following items which can be found at any bearing/hardware supply company:
2 each - HK1010 Needle Bearings. Measurements: OD=14mm BORE=10mm WIDTH=10mm.
2 each - Bearing 136 also known as 686z, 686zz, 686 z, 686 zz. Measurements: OD=13mm BORE=6mm WIDTH=5mm
2 each - Bearing 137 also known as 137z, 137zz, mr137, mr137z, mr137zz, mr 137, mr 137 z, mr 137 zz. Measurements: OD=13mm BORE=7mm WIDTH =4mm
2 each - Inner Retaining Ring BORE=1/2" WIDTH=0.03"
2 each - Rubber O-Ring. ID=5/16" OD=7/16" WIDTH=1/16"
For those of you wanting to lighten up your pedals with aluminum or titanium screws the screw size is:
Bowtie Screws - M4 x 0.7 x 17mm recessed flat head in Stainless Steel. 17mm is the total length of the screw top-to-bottom. 16mm is much easier to find and there should be no problems using the shorter screws for this application. Some flat head screws have a head that is too tall and can protrude from the top of the bowtie. Make sure you get low head screws.
Spindle Screws - M4 x 0.7 x 8mm button head in Furnace Black Steel. 8mm is the length of the threads below the head.
Rebuild instructions:
To replace the bearings unscrew the grease port screw. Using a pick pry off the dust cap. Older pedals will not have the grease port or port screw. Next, remove the spindle screw by using a torx bit or allen wrench (depending on the type of screw) and either a 6mm or 8mm Hex in the Spindle or a 15mm wrench on the Spindle flats (depending on your spindle type).
If, at this point, the screw is stuck do not overtorque it or you will risk stripping out the head. The loctite is seizing the screw. Disclaimer: The following method is not approved by Speedplay and any carelessness can result in injury. You will need to heat the screw to melt the loctite. To do so get a hex bit screw driver and hex bit with the proper torx or allen head for the screw. A hex bit is a small bit the that slides into a quick-change screw driver. Do a Google search for 'hex bit if you don't know or go to: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Torx_drivers.jpg Place just the hex bit into the screw holding the pedal with the screw straight up. Now with a blow torch or good heat gun heat up the end of the bit (furthest point away from the pedal)until it is red hot making sure you do not heat the pedal body. Wait for about 30 seconds to allow the heat from the bit to transfer into the screw melting the loctite. Then slide the hex bit screw driver onto the bit and unscrew. If heated thoroughly the screw will unscrew with minimal effort.
With the screw removed you can now slide the entire body assembly off. The old o-ring should be on the spindle. Remove and discard. Wipe the spindle clean and set aside. Using a retaining ring tool compress the ring and pull straight out. Now using a punch or screw driver carefully tap out the 2 bearings. Discard the old retaining ring and bearings.
Flip the pedal body around to the side with the needle bearing. On the outside lip of the bearing is a thin wire retaining ring. Most all early models do not have this retaining ring. If your dust cap does not have a grease port screw, it probably does not have the retaining ring. Take a pick and pry up one side of the retaining ring. Then with a pair of pliers pull it out. If it is damaged don't worry. You can usually bend it back and tap it in. If not it is not a 'necessary' piece and you can use your pedals without it. No problem. Flip the pedal over and you will see 2 slots behind the needle bearing. Take a small flat blade screw driver and insert into one of the slots and tap with a rubber mallet. The needle bearing will pop right off. Note that the old bearing will now be damaged and is not re-useable. Wipe the inside clean.
To reassemble first place the new o-ring onto the spindle about 1/3 of the way. Now take the new needle bearing and slide it in as far as you can by hand. Make sure the lettering is on the outside as each side is slightly different. Then carefully tap it with a rubber mallet until it is flush with the pedal body. Take the old needle bearing and place it on the new bearing and tap with a rubber mallet until it is completely seated. Discard the old needle bearing. Take the metal retaining ring and tap it into the slot. Now take the pedal body and slide in the 2 bearings making sure you slide in the thinner bearing first. Make sure the bearings are seated all the way in before installing the retaining ring. The ring should clip into the groove in the pedal body. Take the body assembly and slide it back onto the spindle making sure the o-ring seats properly. Take the spindle screw and dab a little blue loctite onto the threads and screw it in. Do not use green or red loctite as you will not be able to remove the screw in the future. Tighten to 3.5nm torque which is equal to 30in/lb or 2.5ft/lb. Install the dust cap and grease the pedal with a grease gun. Screw in the grease port screw and you're done!! The pedals will feel slightly stiff to start with but will loosen up after a few miles. New or freshly greased pedals may leak grease for the first few rides which is completely normal.
Wurde denn das Problem inzwischen gefunden und ggf. behoben?
Meine Speedplay haben schon nach geschätzten 1500-2000km Lagerspiel und zwar radial, besonders an der Innenseite. Genau wie hier beschrieben.
Wurde denn das Problem inzwischen gefunden und ggf. behoben?
Meine Speedplay haben schon nach geschätzten 1500-2000km Lagerspiel und zwar radial, besonders an der Innenseite. Genau wie hier beschrieben.
Ich hab mir dann auf amazon mal recht günstig ein Ersatzset für die Pedalkörper gekauft.
Fetten (was man sowieso regelmäßig tun sollte!) hat das Problem auch kurzfristig etwas vermindert.
Ich hab mir auch den Ersatzkit für die Lager gekauft (über ebay aus England) - allerdings hat es etwas gedauert, bis der eintraf; und dann war ich auf Reise... also habe ich die alten Pedale jetzt noch nicht wieder in stand gesetzt...
Meine haben ein Gleitlager und werden mit einer Mutter, statt einer Schraube befestigt.
Hier braucht man viel Glück, dass man eine schmale Nuss hat, die man aufstecken kann.
Habe einfach so viel Fett wie möglich in den silbernen Achsenkörper geschmiert und wieder alles zusammengebaut.
Von hand hat es nun kein Spiel mehr. Mal sehen obs auch eine Radausfahrt hält...sonst muss ich mir wohl Shimano Pedale besorgen! ;-)
P.S. die Pedale hatten doch radial, als auch axiales Spiel.
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